Which oil for dry hair? Coconut, argan, jojoba: what the science says
Rough lengths, breaking ends, hair that soaks up everything you give it… When hair is dry, oil is often the first thing we reach for. But not all oils are equal, and research is starting to explain why. Here is what the studies say, and how to choose for your hair.
What research says, oil by oil
Coconut oil, the most studied
In 2003, Rele and Mohile compared coconut oil, sunflower oil and mineral oil on healthy and damaged hair. Only coconut oil reduced protein loss from the hair, whether applied before or after washing (study on PubMed). Its short fatty acids allow it to penetrate the fibre instead of staying on the surface.
Argan oil, for softness and shine
It is much loved for the silky feel it leaves. Studies are more nuanced about the fibre itself: a 2024 study published in Cosmetics shows that coconut, avocado and argan oils all penetrate the hair, but with different effects depending on the hair's condition and humidity (read the study). On bleached hair, argan oil alone is not the most protective.
Jojoba oil, close to sebum
It is actually a liquid wax, with a composition similar to natural sebum. It nourishes without weighing hair down, which makes it a good option for fine hair.
What research concludes
A systematic review published in 2022 on coconut, castor and argan oils concludes that the evidence is currently stronger for coconut oil than for argan oil (PubMed).
Why combine several oils?
No single oil does everything. Coconut protects the fibre, argan brings softness and shine, jojoba nourishes without greasiness. A well-balanced blend combines these qualities and limits the drawbacks of each, such as the heaviness of pure coconut oil on fine hair.
That is the choice we made for our Organic Corsican Immortelle Hair Oil: argan, coconut and jojoba, infused with organic Corsican immortelle, the emblematic plant of the maquis. It is a dry oil with 98.8% ingredients of natural origin. It received an AAA rating in the French consumer association UFC-Que Choisir's survey of hair oils (June 2024) and scores 100/100 on the Yuka app.
How to use it for your hair type
| Your hair | As a pre-wash oil treatment | As a finishing touch (on washed hair) |
|---|---|---|
| Fine and dry | 30 min, on the lengths only | ½ to 1 drop on the ends |
| Thick and dry | 1 hour or overnight | 2 to 3 drops on the lengths |
| Curly or coily | 1 hour, section by section | Pressed into damp curls |
| Bleached or damaged | Before every wash | 1 to 2 drops on the ends |
Mistakes to avoid
- Too much product: start with one drop, you can always add more.
- Oiling the roots as a finish: keep the oil for the lengths and ends.
- Relying on oil alone: it protects and softens, but hydration comes first from conditioner or a mask. Oil then seals it in.
Learn more: how to use a hair oil and dry hair: what to do?
Frequently asked questions
What is the best oil for dry hair?
Coconut oil is the most studied for protecting the fibre. A blend of coconut, argan and jojoba combines protection, softness and lightness.
Coconut oil or argan oil?
Coconut protects the fibre better, while argan mainly brings softness and shine. On fine hair, pure coconut oil can weigh hair down.
How often should you oil dry hair?
An oil treatment once a week, and a drop as a finish as often as needed.
Can an oil hydrate hair?
Not on its own: it limits water loss, but the water comes from conditioner or a mask.
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